If we weren’t camping next to a place where cows get their water, I would have slept until noon.  As it was, both Nick and I allowed ourselves 30 more minutes of blissful sleep before starting the day.  We were both exhausted and sore from yesterday’s adventures.  But, regardless of how much our bodies might protest, the hike must go on.

We had just packed up when Jakoby walked up to get water.  I first met Jakoby right after we left Silver City and we keep bumping into him on the trail (as one does).  Back when we were on our way to visit the cliff dwellings, he was hiking back to Doc Campbells because of a prostate issue (he was worried his hike was over).  But he’s one tough 65-year-old man - he’s back on-trail and kicking ass.  His pack is huge and probably heavy and his feet are full of blisters, yet he still hikes faster than we do.  We met him again when we stopped at the next water source for lunch.  I very much enjoyed chatting with him. 

The first part of the day was more of a gravel road walk, so my view was pretty much the same thing: pine trees. It was nice but also a little monotonous. We were stopped by more forest service people, telling us that we can’t have any campfires. I would have thought that to be obvious but I suppose they had to say it.

I also passed and briefly talked to Marmot, a 75-year-old woman hiking the trail.  Her pack looks much heavier than mine yet she’s out here just the same, walking the same trail.  She’s incredible.  I hope I’m able to do these things when I’m 75.

The second part of the day (ie after lunch) brought us back to an actual trail.  Road walks seem like they’d be easier but they can be tedious.  Sure, you can walk faster on the road and you don’t have to think too much about where you step, but it feels more difficult.  Also, you don’t get the same amazing views on the road as you do on the trail.  So I was excited to get back to the trail, although I probably would have missed the turnoff if it wasn’t for the cairn and the arrow pointing the way.

We had heard that we might have cell service once we got to the top of the mountain, so we checked.  Normally we just leave our phones on airplane mode when out hiking, but we wanted to be sure we got our shoe order in to REI so they’d be waiting for us when we get to Grants.  Happily, we had one bar or service and were able to order the shoes.  Gotta keep those feet happy!

My joy at being back on the trail didn’t last long because shortly after getting our shoes ordered the trail went downhill.  And it was a steep, rocky downhill, too.  My body feels wrecked (she’s still in the process of getting in trail shape) and that downhill didn’t do me any favors, especially my ankle.

At one point I beat up a bush with my hiking poles.  (In my defense, it reached out and scratched me.)

A little while later I screamed out, “Aaaaaaa!!!! Who designed this disaster of a trail?!?”

A little while after that, I stabbed the ground with my poles and yelled, “This is bull$*#!!”

I’m sure Jakoby, who was behind me, had a good laugh. 

Don’t worry, I then ate a snack.  

I’m sure the food helped brighten my mood, but so did seeing this cairn:

I particularly enjoyed the little details, too. Some of the smaller rocks were beautiful, and I loved the addition of the scrabble tile:

I ended up having to eat two snacks before everything was right with the world again.  I’m definitely not eating enough.

Camp tonight is at a cow pond, and the water tastes just as you’d expect it would with cows shitting in it all day.  I’m going to need to add all the NuUN tablets I have to mask the terrible taste.  And my filter is terribly clogged now - the water barely comes out.

While I was getting water out of the cow pond, Canary walked up to get water.  I saw him earlier in the day, going back towards the fire.  We had a brief chat and I discovered that Canary is hoping to triple crown in a calendar year - that means hiking the Appalachian Trail (AT), the Continental Divide Trail (CDT), and the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) all in the same year.  He just finished the AT and is now working on the CDT.  He plans to finish doing the PCT southbound (SOBO).  He said he was shuttled through the fire yesterday but was so upset about missing those miles that he decided to hike back to reconnect his footsteps.  Apparently, after some heavy convincing, the forest service guys let him walk through.  We didn’t chat long - he had some miles left to go of his planned 37-mile day - but I wished him luck and happy hiking and watched him hike/jog down the trail.  

I only did 18 miles today and I’m exhausted - I can’t imagine doing 37 in one day.  In fact, right now I can’t imagine taking so much as a single step.  

Along the way:

Camp: