Start:  1030 - Casa de Luna
End:  1700 - Upper Shake Campground
Miles (today): 13 alternate
Miles (cumulative): 509 (409.5 PCT, 89.5 alternate, 10 off) 

When Candee and I backpacked Europe for a month way back in 2004, we had a night in Munich that we both agree was a turning point in the whole trip.  It's not that things were bad before Munich, it's that things were so much better afterwards.  We stayed at a hostel that was playing American music in the common room, we met some awesome people, we partied, and, most importantly, we laughed; The combination of all that somehow took our trip to a different level.

There are a lot of similarities between PCT Day 32 and Munich.  Firstly, I reintroduced music to my life.  Secondly, we've been hanging around some awesome people lately (like Special K and Dirt Squirrel).  Thirdly, we partied (sort-of) at Casa de Luna and I laughed more than I have in a long time.  Fourthly, I received a message from Terry, a friend/former work associate, that made me feel all warm and fuzzy - he called me a crazy awesome total hero of his and I laughed out loud when I read it.  All of those good vibes made me feel like a completely different hiker when I woke up today.  It's as if I'm finally 'getting it' or something. (Or maybe it's because someone gave me a trail name yesterday - I used to be Beth but now I'm Apples....Yeah, having a trail name is definitely weird)

Today was yet another road walk around yet another fire closure.  12 miles of road walking would have really tested Beth's patience, but Apples was perfectly content listening to her music and smiling/waving at all the cars that passed.  (Apples? Am I really going with Apples?)

The Andersons made all the hikers pancakes in the morning.  I ate 4 humongous pancakes - they were quite good and I was quite hungry! I still prefer my oatmeal concoction, though, but I'm not going to turn down pancakes.  I said goodbye to Special K as he got his ride around the closure (I'm going to miss him, I feel like he's mainly responsible for the change in my thru-hiking attitude).  While we waited for our ride (some nice lady was shuttling hikers back to the fire station) we chatted with other hikers (Gopher, Bluebird, Powder, etc) and also bumped into Bamboo and Morning Kid - it was a brief hi but I enjoyed seeing them again.

There was a bit of a scare this morning when three hikers showed up saying they couldn't find their friend.  Apparently their friend (a hiker I know) did the 24 24 24 challenge (drink 24 beers and hike 24 miles in 24 hours - it's a crazy thing to do but this guy is young).  They said they woke up to find their friend gone- his pack and shoes were still there but he wasn't.  They looked everywhere for him but no luck.  Happily, he stumbled in a little later and was embarrassed when he found out the Sheriff had been called. I'm just glad he's ok!

Today was another nero so we didn't push it. We stopped to have lunch at a biker bar called The Rock Inn and guess who was there?! The rest of the AT group along with their new additions, Knee Deep and Torch (Knee Deep and Mash started dating just before this trip).  The food was great, the company was wonderful, and the service was stellar.  I tipped our waitress 30% because she was that amazing.

Bikers stopped us to ask questions about what we are doing and, as always, they lifted my spirits.  In fact, many of the people out riding lifted my spirits by waving or saluting us - it was like we were running a race and they were the supportive crowd.  I told the people who talked to us how much the waving helps so hopefully they will remember to wave to other hikers when they see them on their travels.

Really, the road walk wasn't awful at all.  We even encountered trail magic a few times!

The last mile of the alternate was the worst for me mentally.  We were off the road and hiking in the woods and the dreaded gnats and flies and mosquitos were out in force. Even with the music I was a little on edge- gnats were getting in my eyes, mouth, and nose; mosquitos and flies were buzzing around my face and biting my legs.  I know it's going to be 100 times worse soon and I really need to find a way to not be annoyed by them (and I really need to get a headnet).

Nick and I originally planned to hike another 5 miles to water and a campsite but when we ran into the AT group at this campsite I made the decision to stay. My feet hurt from walking the road and my psyche hurt from the gnats, mosquitos, and flies.  Unfortunately, staying here meant someone would have to trek back 0.5 miles to get water.  Since I made the call to stay I walked back through the gnats, mosquitos, and flies to get water.  Hiking without a heavy pack on feels so good (I really need to figure out where I can cut weight); Getting eaten alive by mosquitos feels so bad.  

Nick set up the tent, got dinner started, AND inflated my air mattress for me while I was out fetching water.  He's pretty awesome.  :)