Start: 0730 - PCT mile 784
End:  1600 - Lone Pine (Dow Villa Motel)
Miles (today): 12 (4.5 PCT, 7.5 off)
Miles (cumulative): 837 (705 PCT, 89.5 alternate, 42.5 off)

The first thing I saw when stepping out of the tent this morning was trees and a beautiful snow covered mountain.  I took a deep breath and marveled at how clean and crisp the air is - I can almost feel my lungs recovering from breathing in so much rush hour exhaust.  I smiled.  It was a wonderful start to the day.  

We hiked to Bullfrog Lake trail, where we got off the PCT to go across Kearsarge Pass (so we could make our way back to civilization and resupply).  Remember when I said the uphills and downhills weren't too bad?  Yeah, I was just kidding.  We walked constantly uphill for hours to get to the top of Kearsarge Pass and then, worse, constantly walked downhill for hours on the Onion Valley trail to get to the trailhead (and a hitch into town).  Going up is a bitch, sure, but at least I go up with some speed and dignity.  I still really struggle with going down, particularly when the trail is rocky. I'm so slow!  I hate being slow, it's demoralizing.  I thought I was improving but apparently not as everyone seemed to pass me.  Thankfully, the scenery makes it all worth it.  

We ran into a lot of hikers coming back from town, to include Sam, Pacer, and Sara (now Dilly Dally)!  I haven't seen them in a really long time - it was great to catch up.  

On the last switchback to the Onion Valley trailhead (it seemed like we went down hundreds of switchbacks although I'm sure it wasn't that many - I'm DREADING having to hike the whole thing in reverse, though) I actually passed two hikers.  Don't get too excited for me, they were day-hikers obviously just enjoying the day with no need to rush (unlike us thru-hikers who feel the pressure to get in as many miles as we can).  As I passed them I commented on how good they smell (sounds weird I know) and they laughed.  Wouldn't you know it, they offered us a ride to Independence.  :)

Once to Independence, we had to hitch to get to Lone Pine.  We tried for about 15 minutes and were just about to look up the bus hours when a van stopped and a lady asked if we needed a ride.  Yes!  It turns out she was headed back to San Diego after hiking for about a week so she completely understood our situation (I always feel horrible about subjecting non thru-hikers to my odor- deodorant and dry shampoo powder help but they certainly can't fix 6 days without a shower).  She was so nice!!!

We got a room at a motel.  I sorted through my gear (and will be sending about 3 lbs of stuff back) while Nick got some groceries and did laundry (have I mentioned how awesome he is lately?).  When he came back he had a large pizza, which we ate on the bed while watching game 7 of the basketball championship.  We polished off that pizza in less then 10 minutes!  

As I sit here on this extremely comfortable bed (I can't wait to sleep!) and look at all the pictures I've taken I think two things.  One, pictures just don't do this part of the trail justice.  Two, the trail definitely makes you earn the beautiful views, that's for sure.  Then again, it's somehow better this way - if it was easy it probably wouldn't be as spectacular (but I'm still dreading going over Kearsarge Pass again - I think knowing what's in store for us might make it worse.)

Along the trail: