Start: 0930 - PCT mile 1237
End: 1330 - PCT mile 1242.5
Miles (today): 5.5
Miles (cumulative): 1282.5 (1134.5 PCT, 91.5 alternate, 56.5 off)
Last night was long and brutal, particularly (especially) for Nick, who was violently sick throughout the night. Things calmed down by 0300, but sleep was difficult. It was horrible having to witness Nick's pain and be unable to help; I can't even imagine what it was like for him. Just to give you some idea, he told me he thought he was going to die several times (and he isn't typically one to exaggerate).
Nick was in no shape to start hiking at 0700. In fact, he was in no shape to hike at all. Alas, like the time I was dehydrated, we were dry camping (not near water) so staying put was out of the question. Nick requested that I wake him back up at 0900 so we could figure something out.
While Nick slept, I did my best to clean up camp and then found a quiet spot away from Nick (and in the sun) to relax. While I was soaking up the sun I was startled by a voice behind me - I was pretty far off trail so the person behind the voice had to have come looking for me. It was Claude, the German who camped near us last night, offering me a liter of water. It was not shocking to learn that he heard how sick Nick was (I'm pretty sure he didn't get much sleep because of it, either) but it was a huge shock that he was offering us some water. I couldn't thank him enough. He was so kind and generous and sympathetic! I was humbled.
After I woke Nick up (which I didn't really want to do), we decided to try to make it to the water source about 5 miles away - on the topographic map it looked like the terrain was suitable for camping (and camping near water is preferable). So we set off. Nick didn't want me to hike behind him so I stayed in front, stopping every few minutes to make sure he was still behind me (and hadn't collapsed or something horrible). Thankfully, the trail was mostly downhill, mostly shaded, and not too rocky. Even so, Nick moved very, very slowly (he really had no business hiking at all).
After a mile or so, as I was waiting for Nick to walk around a bend in the trail, I saw Far Out (I thought he was ahead of us but it turns out he and Ruby/Golden took some time in Tahoe.). When I asked if he passed Nick (I was concerned because I thought Nick should have caught up with me by then) he confirmed that Nick was still moving (although just barely). He stayed and chatted with me a bit while I waited for Nick. When I asked about Ruby (it was weird to see him hiking alone), he said she was spending time with family and was a few days behind. We discussed the trail and how difficult (mentally) it is right now - compared to the Sierras, there isn't much to look at (it's pretty much all pine trees) and when you expend the energy to go up a huge incline there isn't much payoff (i.e. there isn't much of a view at the top, just more pine trees). We also discussed how difficult it can be to walk alone without someone to talk to/distract you from your aches and pains. Talking with him reiterated that I am not failing at this thru-hiking thing and reminded me that we are all going through the same thing, which was comforting.
Before he hiked on, Far Out said he had a lot of extra food and offered me some. Even though Nick and I should have enough to last us a few extra days out here, I took what he offered (just in case). For the second time today, I found myself humbled by the generosity and kindness of other hikers.
After 2 miles, I stopped so Nick could rest. While Nick was resting, Sunny and Killer hiked up. We chatted for a bit and I explained Nick's situation. They were both sympathetic and Sunny gave us some Imodium (just in case). Again - wow. I hope we'll be able to repay everyone somehow!
We walked onward. After another mile or so we crossed a road (23N55Y) and saw a parked truck, three non-hikers, and Bad Mash drinking a beer (note: We met Bad Mash at the campsite on Day 1 and haven't seen him again until today. He remembered us! Wild!). When I walked up to the truck the non-hikers greeted me and offered me a drink, too. They weren't exactly planning to do trail magic but that's exactly what they gave us! When they found out Nick was ill they gave us water, two bottles of vitamin water, and even some food (I accepted the Cheerios because who knows what Nick is going to want/be able to eat later). While Nick rested in the shade, I talked with Jim, Jagna, and Gary for a while - they are so nice! (I know I say that a lot about the people we meet out here but it's true - maybe there is something in the water!) ((Jim, Jagna, and Gary, if you are reading this, THANK YOU SO MUCH for your help!))
Jim, Jagna, and Gary: the lifesaving Trail Angels
When Nick and I finally made it to the trail for water we were dismayed at the surrounding terrain - there were definitely no places to set up camp. I walked the 0.1 miles off trail to Fowler Creek (which was steep and seemed a lot longer than 0.1 miles) and got as much water as I could carry while Nick rested (I honesty don't know how he managed to walk as far as he did). Then we set off again, looking for someplace flat enough for the tent. It's too bad the Middle Fork Feather River is so far away because it would be the ideal place to camp (but in Nick's condition 5 miles might as well be 50... I wonder how Baloo fared in his 50 mile quest).
We found a decent place to camp not too far down the trail, which was good because Nick pretty much collapsed on my mat while I put up the tent (putting up the tent is not as complicated as I thought). Then I blew up Nick's air mattress and moved Nick into the tent. While Nick slept, I made dinner. It's my turn to repay Nick for all the times my cold-stricken hands have rendered me useless - it feels good to be able to take care of him for once.
At 1900, Nick awoke and said that we would probably need more water. Most of me was happy that he was properly rehydrating but I was a little bummed that I would have to walk back 0.5 miles (and go back down that horribly steep trail) to get more water. I had just cleaned up and changed into my sleep clothes and everything! Sigh. I put on my hiking clothes, filled my empty pack with all the water bottles we had, and made my way back down the trail.
On my water gathering walk, I bumped into G-String. G-String had the same sick, exhausted look in his eyes as Nick. He confirmed that he wasn't feeling good at all and asked if there was a place to camp nearby. I told him about our makeshift campsite and said there was room for him, too, which he was happy to hear about. Yikes! What's going on? Why all the sick hikers? (I've heard of a lot of people getting sick these past few weeks. Is it going to strike me next?)
Admittedly, it's strange to be on the trail and not hiking; however, I can use the rest, too (my feet have been killing me lately, probably because my shoes are worn out and need to be replaced, my leg could use a break, and I want to be strong enough to battle whatever illness may came my way.)
Finally, I'd like to end this post by saying Happy 40th Birthday to my amazing, beautiful, thoughtful, and talented sister-in-law, Theresa. Not only does she manage this blog (which is quite the undertaking considering I email her quite a few updates all at once), her and my niece, Maddie, continue to make the most amazing clay figures for me to pass on to people we meet along the trail (the figures are a hit - everyone is amazed at their detail). Theresa is always looking for ways to help others and the love she has for her friends and family is so warm and all encompassing that you can't help but be happy to know she is in your life and on your side. She is a great friend and a fantastic sister. Thank you, Theresa, for all you do! I hope you had a good birthday (sorry we couldn't call). I am so grateful you are in my life!
some examples of the clay figures they make